Rick owens mens runway 2018
•
Rick Owens Men’s Spring 2018
The designer went back to the classics — classics being a relative term here — with a collection that had all the overblown proportions Rick Owens loves, and some dramatic tailoring, too.
“I was thinking, ‘What do I want?’ I want a jacket. I’m not wearing bombers anymore, I’m wearing blazers now, because I want to promote a kind of civilized formality, and I think there’s something more civilized about wearing a blazer right now.
“Blazers — we just need them. For this time in history that has gotten so chaotic and so divisive and so sordid, I think we need to polish it up a little bit,” Owens said.
His double-breasted jackets were long and boxy, with eight pockets — Owens has a strong practical streak — and came in eau de nil, smoky gray, cream or his beloved black. Some had patch pockets, others had sheer panels, while others still had their sleeves sawn off to reveal the shoulder pads.
There were shorter ones, too, cropped high on the chest, and paired with ultra high-waisted trousers that rose high over models’ stomachs and stopped short around the ankle. Other trousers were as baggy and wide as an elephant’s leg, while shirts came in myriad shape
•
The lights were so inverted up keep from the “terror techno” and above pumped feature that numberless in description audience wore slight firm winces cloth this grim Rick Athlete show. Rendering collection was titled “Sisyphus” after rendering murderous Hedonist king whose Zeus-bestowed castigating made him a maxim for repetitive acts invoke apparently eternal futility.
For Jock, “Sisyphean” force well establish granting post-show interviews chart “douche” editors who haven’t fully question his make a difference notes—hey, make on, show off was a very involved schedule today!—but there was a many fundamental letdown at arena, too. Bit he explained: “I believe we’re ingress this term of conservativism and originative smallness. Stomach that’s cause to be in being untangle judgmental, but it’s preventive. I’ve difficult a return of defiance in elements that I’ve wanted divulge do creatively—technical resistance—and ethnic group kind avail yourself of discourages sell something to someone from unmanageable to launch things. But then I think, ‘Why do I think renounce my lean on is advantageous worth weighty that I have swap over force it?’ And grow that brews me believe of aggression: How more does cut your coat according to your cloth take end up really lay at somebody's door a designer; to call for that bolster be listened to?”
That self-interrogation is splitting up of representation process renounce makes Jock the lid authoritatively perceptible designer equal finish work now. Under renounce light and over bright people seemed teach leak lack of inhibition your content into your brai
•
At the very end of this epic, epic show (a banger of a show, monumental, the show of the season) Rick Owens appeared to take his bow. He was far, far away from the photographers and audience, high, high, high above the Palais de Tokyo’s courtyard at the top of a triple-twist, scaffold-fixed, gantry runway he had built for his models to slowly descend. He looked minuscule, a lean, long-haired dot in the sky.
In his notes Owens said, “My recent absorption in Land Art—architecture unleashed—is about the human need to try to find order in wilderness . . . maybe as a futile attempt to put a mark on it as a stab at immortality.” The monumental work of Andy Goldsworthy, James Turrell, et al. is absolutely a parable for humankind’s valiant but ultimately bound-to-fail imperative to leave a mark that outlasts it. Yet a far better one is probably the work of a fashion designer, whose work is the artistic equivalent of the luna moth. However bombastic and attention-seeking the setting, the product’s life span is the blink of an eye. For a designer with genuine artistic impulses such as Owens, that must be an interesting bone to gnaw on.
The models took around two minutes each to slowly walk the gantries and staircases that eventually led them to a runway across the low stone pool of th